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Sartorial Spectacle : = Clothing, Identity, and the State in Early Qing Drama.

Record Type:	Language materials, manuscript : Monograph/item
Title/Author:	Sartorial Spectacle :/
Reminder of title:	Clothing, Identity, and the State in Early Qing Drama.
Author:	Wang, Guojun.
Description:	1 online resource (263 pages)
Notes:	Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 77-06(E), Section: A.
Contained By:	Dissertation Abstracts International77-06A(E).
Subject:	Asian literature. -
Online resource:	click for full text (PQDT)
ISBN:	9781339470641

Sartorial Spectacle : = Clothing, Identity, and the State in Early Qing Drama.
Wang, Guojun.

Sartorial Spectacle :Clothing, Identity, and the State in Early Qing Drama. - 1 online resource (263 pages)

Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 77-06(E), Section: A.

Thesis (Ph.D.)--Yale University, 2015.

Includes bibliographical references

Scholars have identified the Ming-Qing transition (the mid-seventeenth century) as a moment of unprecedented rupture in the history of Chinese clothing, since the Manchu rulers forced all male Han Chinese to change into Manchu clothing as a symbol of submission. In drama and theater, however, costumes in the Han style remained permissible, whereas Manchu clothing was made a taboo. Clothing and drama in early Qing China thus simultaneously became sites of control and contention between the state and its subjects.

Electronic reproduction.
Ann Arbor, Mich. :
ProQuest,
2018

Mode of access: World Wide Web

ISBN: 9781339470641Subjects--Topical Terms:

1183555
Asian literature.
Index Terms--Genre/Form:

554714
Electronic books.

Sartorial Spectacle : = Clothing, Identity, and the State in Early Qing Drama.
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100 1 $a Wang, Guojun. $3 1051571
245 1 0 $a Sartorial Spectacle : $b Clothing, Identity, and the State in Early Qing Drama.
264 0 $c 2015
300 $a 1 online resource (263 pages)
336 $a text $b txt $2 rdacontent
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500 $a Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 77-06(E), Section: A.
500 $a Adviser: Tina Lu.
502 $a Thesis (Ph.D.)--Yale University, 2015.
504 $a Includes bibliographical references
520 $a Scholars have identified the Ming-Qing transition (the mid-seventeenth century) as a moment of unprecedented rupture in the history of Chinese clothing, since the Manchu rulers forced all male Han Chinese to change into Manchu clothing as a symbol of submission. In drama and theater, however, costumes in the Han style remained permissible, whereas Manchu clothing was made a taboo. Clothing and drama in early Qing China thus simultaneously became sites of control and contention between the state and its subjects.
520 $a Given the political sensitivity of clothing and the cultural denigration of drama, how did the texts and performances of early Qing drama respond to the contemporaneous sartorial transition? To answer this question, I examine dramas produced in the first century of the Qing dynasty against early Qing history and existing theatrical traditions. As an overarching theme and analytical framework, I suggest the concept of "sartorial spectacle," by which I mean, first, representations of clothing in drama texts and performances, and second, the social landscape that contrasts clothing in drama texts, performances, and clothing in society. I argue that the Ming-Qing transition gave rise to nuanced sartorial spectacle(s) in early Qing drama, in which clothing serves as a theatrical language for the negotiation between individuals and the Manchu state.
520 $a The dissertation focuses on a group of shishi ju---dramas based on contemporary events. Each chapter focuses on one drama to explore one of the many dimensions of early Qing sartorial spectacle, from politics and ethnicity to family and gender. The introduction unpacks the concept of "sartorial spectacle" in early Qing drama, and lays out the methods and structure of the dissertation. The first two chapters explore the ethno-political dimension of clothing. Chapter 1 provides a panorama of the sartorial changes as represented in Taohua shan (Peach Blossom Fan) by discussing how the drama represents Ming state attire being reduced to the status of stage props and relegated to the historical past. Chapter 2 contemplates the "absence" of costume instruction in Wanli yuan (A Ten-thousand Li Reunion) to reveal how clothing and the body became sites of negotiation between family and the state during the dynastic change.
520 $a The following two chapters explore the gender dimensions of clothing. Chapter 3, on Dao yuanyang (Lovebirds Switcheroo), examines how the drama depicts female clothing as a temporary sanctuary for a man, and how dressing across ethnicities in the context of dynastic change problematizes the traditional tale of cross-dressing in Chinese dramas. Chapter 4 analyzes Hai Liefu chuanqi (Chaste Lady Hai), which depicts a chaste lady stitching together her entire outfit to prevent sexual assault before committing suicide. I argue that the rhetoric of cloth and clothes in this drama signifies a new definition of female identity in early Qing China---as a result of the dynastic transition, and pressed into service of Manchu state-making. The epilogue provides an overview of the changing relations between clothing, individual identity, and the state after the dynastic change by outlining the increasing dramatization of Manchu clothing through the mid-to-late Qing periods.
520 $a The dissertation furthers our understanding of the Ming-Qing transition as a reconfiguration of sartorial systems, a policing of theatricality, and a transformation of individual identities. It introduces an interdisciplinary method to read highly unstable performative texts, and thus contributes methodologically to the studies of early Qing literature, history, material culture, as well as performance studies in general.
533 $a Electronic reproduction. $b Ann Arbor, Mich. : $c ProQuest, $d 2018
538 $a Mode of access: World Wide Web
650 4 $a Asian literature. $3 1183555
650 4 $a Theater history. $3 1185120
650 4 $a Asian history. $2 bicssc $3 810327
655 7 $a Electronic books. $2 local $3 554714
690 $a 0305
690 $a 0644
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710 2 $a ProQuest Information and Learning Co. $3 1178819
710 2 $a Yale University. $3 1178968
773 0 $t Dissertation Abstracts International $g 77-06A(E).
856 4 0 $u http://pqdd.sinica.edu.tw/twdaoapp/servlet/advanced?query=10011178 $z click for full text (PQDT)