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Predicting coastal waves with buoy observations and global model output : = A Southern California case study.

Record Type:	Language materials, manuscript : Monograph/item
Title/Author:	Predicting coastal waves with buoy observations and global model output :/
Reminder of title:	A Southern California case study.
Author:	Crosby, Sean Christopher Hunter.
Description:	1 online resource (111 pages)
Notes:	Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 78-08(E), Section: B.
Subject:	Physical oceanography. -
Online resource:	click for full text (PQDT)
ISBN:	9781369682090

Predicting coastal waves with buoy observations and global model output : = A Southern California case study.
Crosby, Sean Christopher Hunter.

Predicting coastal waves with buoy observations and global model output :A Southern California case study. - 1 online resource (111 pages)

Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 78-08(E), Section: B.

Thesis (Ph.D.)--University of California, San Diego, 2017.

Includes bibliographical references

Accurate coastal wave predictions are needed to support nearshore process modeling (transport, erosion) and local risk assessment (flooding, inundation). Small errors in direction or frequency have relatively large impacts to transport, run-up estimates. Nearshore prediction error is often dominated by offshore uncertainties in regional models. Detailed, frequency-direction, spectra are needed offshore to accurately estimate blocking and refraction in sheltered regions, e.g. the Southern California Bight (SBC).

Electronic reproduction.
Ann Arbor, Mich. :
ProQuest,
2018

Mode of access: World Wide Web

ISBN: 9781369682090Subjects--Topical Terms:

1178843
Physical oceanography.
Index Terms--Genre/Form:

554714
Electronic books.

Predicting coastal waves with buoy observations and global model output : = A Southern California case study.
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100 1 $a Crosby, Sean Christopher Hunter. $3 1185906
245 1 0 $a Predicting coastal waves with buoy observations and global model output : $b A Southern California case study.
264 0 $c 2017
300 $a 1 online resource (111 pages)
336 $a text $b txt $2 rdacontent
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500 $a Source: Dissertation Abstracts International, Volume: 78-08(E), Section: B.
500 $a Adviser: Robert T. Guza.
502 $a Thesis (Ph.D.)--University of California, San Diego, 2017.
504 $a Includes bibliographical references
520 $a Accurate coastal wave predictions are needed to support nearshore process modeling (transport, erosion) and local risk assessment (flooding, inundation). Small errors in direction or frequency have relatively large impacts to transport, run-up estimates. Nearshore prediction error is often dominated by offshore uncertainties in regional models. Detailed, frequency-direction, spectra are needed offshore to accurately estimate blocking and refraction in sheltered regions, e.g. the Southern California Bight (SBC).
520 $a Here, nearshore prediction skill using both global wave model predictions and offshore buoy observations in the offshore boundary condition is compared for swell-band wave energy (0.04-0.09Hz). Despite inherent directional ambiguity, offshore buoy observations yield a more accurate boundary condition. Analytical and ah hoc combinations global model predictions and offshore buoy observations are tested and yield worse and marginally improved predictions respectively (as compared to buoy-driven predictions).
520 $a Coastal regions often contain sheltered nearshore wave observations. Assimilating nearshore observations in regional wave models theoretically will improve regional skill. However, nonlinear wave propagation models (e.g. SWAN, WW3) are difficult to invert. Recent developments employ variational methods, but success in complex real-world environments has yet to be observed. At swell-bands wave energy propagation across narrow shelves (e.g. U.S. West Coast) is dominated by linear processes (refraction, shoaling) and well modeled by self-adjoint ray tracing. Here, a general assimilation framework is developed to estimate physically smooth (time, direction), accurate, offshore boundary conditions from offshore and sheltered buoy observations with global model predictions included as a model prior. Case studies show error reduction at validation (non-assimilated) buoy sites suggesting that assimilation of nearshore observations improves regional skill. Initial results suggest that few (1 offshore, 1-2 nearshore) buoys are needed to sufficiently resolve offshore conditions, which has implications for cost-effective buoy array design. Additionally, buoy sites with significant misfit to assimilated observations identify regions of model error suggesting missing model physics (e.g. diffraction, reflection).
533 $a Electronic reproduction. $b Ann Arbor, Mich. : $c ProQuest, $d 2018
538 $a Mode of access: World Wide Web
650 4 $a Physical oceanography. $3 1178843
655 7 $a Electronic books. $2 local $3 554714
690 $a 0415
710 2 $a ProQuest Information and Learning Co. $3 1178819
710 2 $a University of California, San Diego. $b Oceanography. $3 1185907
856 4 0 $u http://pqdd.sinica.edu.tw/twdaoapp/servlet/advanced?query=10255525 $z click for full text (PQDT)